Date: 29th July – 31st JulyAmongst all the stan, Turkmenistan has often been referred as the craziest, most lock down country.
Looking at the longest border crossing ever thought of, the omnipresence of police, army , cctv camera around Ashgabat and of course, the president photo placarted everywhere, one can get a glimpse of how life for normal Turkmen must be. Despite this condition of propaganda and dictatorship, the Turkmen are by far, the friendliest people we met on the road. Everyone waives at you. Every person we met in Ashgabat seems to know of the Mongol Rally. Even the folks processing our visas for over 14hrs were quite friendly. Both group trapped by an awful administration.
Waking up fresh of the night outside of Turkmenbashi, the same image of a barren land with only a few shrubs. After a short breakfast we all head to Ashgabat. The road are worst than anticipated with a max speed limit of 50kms per hours and Michael avoiding scratching the car every 2 seconds.
After 5 hours of scorching sun and bumps we finally made it to the Underground lake of Kow-Ata. A 65m stair case lead you straight down to this sulphuric underground hot spring. Turns out that what we thought would be a good idea to refresh and relax gave us more an ijmpression of what a boiled egg would feel like.
The rest of the road is getting better. Our arrival in Ashgabat feels like travellers reaching an oasis, perfect asphalt, clean cars (you get a fine if your ride is dirty in the city) driving around marble and gold palaces, fountains and beautiful parks. Flags and photos or news broadcast of the president seating in his “command room”
This city is the living artefact of the sun-king complex of previous president Niazov. Slightly, only slightly toned down for the current one.
Our late arrival means hunting for hotels was quite a challenge. We finally settle for some decrepit joint with less than salubrious facilities. At that time of the day and considering the road we had, no one really cared. Shower to get rid of the egg smell, we head to the local bar in the hotel backyard. We found other team also feasting on Shashlik and beer. Some of the best meal
Quote of the day
Other pickled travellers met in the lobby: “Don’t speak out too loud in this hotel, the microphones are old and they might not pick the higher pitch of your voice.”
What I take away from today
A theory:
“The friendlier the autochthones, the least likely they will have a good democracy.
Demonstration:
- Turkmen, Georgian and Azeri are very friendly. Their government is far from quality
- French, German, English have some of the most developed democracies.
Opposite works. Make sense! Demonstration successful
Tomorrow
6 countries to cross, 900kms and night in Belgrade.
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